Kriek (Belgian lambic ale brewed with cherries)
Let us begin this episode by pondering why Belgian lambics, particularly fruited lambics, are solely the preserve of beer geeks. Even those within Belgium scarcely knew of their existence. It took beer writer Michael Jackson to introduce Belgian beer to Belgians, hence why he was the only non-brewer to be inducted into the Belgian Brewers Guild.
Today, every time I pick up a bottle of Boon Kriek or Oud Beersel Kriek I ponderously run two fingers around the Champagne-like bottle’s punt (the concave indent at the base) and wonder, in spite of Jackson’s best efforts, why this beer style is still so under appreciated.
To put it bluntly, every wine cellar should have at least one bottle of kriek therein, especially as pet nats and natural wines take over the world. Every self respecting restaurant with a cutting edge wine program ought to have kriek on its menu. And every Homer Simpson beer guzzler who knows only beer to be akin to a singular cigarette brand he or she rigidly sticks to their whole life should at the very least sample a glass of kriek to witness what beer can be.
Heck, it may even impress a love prospect.
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| Younger kriek is likely to have more fresh fruit character from cherries that have yet to be fully developed through the process of fermentation. Image shows a pair of Boon Kriek bottles with bright red labels with corks still unopened. |
Kriek: What You Need to Know
Origin: The village of Lambeek, located just outside of Brussels, Belgium.
Etymology: “Kriek” is the Flemish word for cherry.
Where to find them: Specialty bars and bottleshops.
ABV: 5.0-7.0%. Some modern interpretations may be higher.
Approachability: Unsweetened kriek may be quite bracing at first, like having red wine for the first time. Complexities and nuances become more apparent before too long.
Glassware: Stemmed goblet with inward taper. The Spiegelau Barrel-aged style glass is my go to for the job. Otherwise for a real touch of class and elegance, serve in a Champagne flute.
Seasonality: Year round.
Serving temperature: Around 7°C.
Kriek: A (not so) brief history
One only has to look at the history and geography of Europe to deduce there is a “grape and grain” divide. On either side of the divide climate and other forces helped determine the suitability for production of grains for beer or grapes for wine.
This dividing line cuts right through Belgium, which might not only explain why fruited beer has been made there for centuries, but also why the Belgians treat their beer like wine more than anywhere else on Earth. Perhaps most crucially, in the days before hops, beers were flavoured with gruits (a catch all term describing any combination of herbs, botanicals, spices and fruits), the Belgians added fruit to their beers almost exclusively. They have maintained this tradition more than anyone else over the ages.
Indeed the fruit used in Belgian beer was that which grew wild and was left over from each growing season. The resident yeast in the fruit (and it may surprise you to learn all brewer’s yeast originally derives from fruit) provided further fermentation as the fruit was added to barrels of beer. The resultant beverage transcends the worlds of wine and beer perhaps more than aficionados from either side would like to admit.
It bears mentioning that krieks and other fruited lambics differ from gueuzes in that although both are a blend of older and newer beer, fermentation begins anew with the addition of fruit in krieks, while gueuze’s fermentation continues with the blending of one year old lambic that is itself still fermenting out.
During the 1980s krieks and other spontaneously fermented lambic beers were often sweetened and fermented in stainless steel vats instead of wood to increase their appeal at a time when pale lagers dominated.
Kriek... What processed cherries should taste like
It is no small wonder why lambic brewers have any scalp left on their head with the amount of noggin scratching they do. The decision over which beer is destined for the local cafes of Brussels as a single lambic, which will be blended with two- and three-year old lambic to make gueuze, or that which will have locally sourced dried, sour Schaarbeek cherries added is as complex as the resultant beers themselves.
When a kriek is being produced, the cherries (which in the boldest form of krieks are added by the pound for every few litres of beer) ferment right down to the pits. That’s right, yeast is literally flesh eating, and the pits themselves add a touch of nuttiness and bitterness to the beer as well.
In younger versions, there is more fresh fruit flavour as one can well imagine. Older versions, known as oud kriek, tend to be brighter (more acidic) and a touch more astringent as the fruit develops into more complex, intriguing characteristics.
As krieks continue undergoing fermentation in the bottle, why not grab two of the same vintage? Drink one now. Take notes. Cellar the other for later. Compare.
Why kriek is so awesome
The fermentation process itself is only the beginning of the endless fascination that kriek lambic beers offer. The fruit does its thing, the wood and its bugs impart their flavour and the brewer selects the blend. What we’re left with is a true object of desire, one that will surely delight and surprise with every sip.
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| Forget Champagne, Kriek is sure to to win over your next date. |
Kriek is better than wine with...
A date.
No, really. I encourage you to have your partner over for dinner, and having purchased a couple of bottles of Kriek Mariage Parfait, pour it into a pair of Champagne flutes before or after dinner. The pop of the cork only helps to complete the picture. Then you may thank me later as you melt into each other’s eyes.
Kriek Mariage Parfait is a more delicate, nuanced and subtle example of the style. It is perfect for those not used to sour beer but with an already sophisticated palate. And would you look at its blushy claret colour against the candlelight...? It looks almost wine-like, yes?
Probably because kriek is not that far removed from wine.
Kriek is also great with chocolate, cheesecake and soft ripened cheeses. Also highly date appropriate!
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