#whatbeerwednesdays: Episode 5

American IPA

Welcome back to the blog for another enthralling episode of #whatbeerwednesdays - and yes I am acutely aware it is Thursday in much of the world. The series dedicated to the forgotten beer styles BTT recommends you enjoy every Wednesday in lieu of what might get you the most likes on social media.

This week, we cast the net over the American iPA.

The haze craze took over the beer world like a military coup no one had quite expected. As Garrett Oliver, head brewer at Brookyn Brewery and author of The Brewmaster’s Table and primary contributor to The Oxford Companion to Beer quite rightly noted: “The #hazyIPA is the world’s first #instabeer.”

Personally I see nothing wrong with this in and of itself. However, search Instagram hashtags for “IPA” and observe the top ranking posts. Notice a trend in the appearance of each beer?

Moreover, the fun of Instagramming and Untappd checking-in beers does take away from the fun of physical socialising, and the end result is many classic styles and brands have all of a sudden found themselves struggling to remain relevant. As you know, this is more or less the premise to this blog series and other campaigns like #flagshipfebruary.

It must be remembered we wouldn’t be here in the first place were it not for this loud and proud beer style.

From here on in it’s (almost) all filter and #nofilter as we delve most deeply into the classic American IPA style.

Mr. Banks Brewing, based in Melbourne's south, is among the country's fines, particularly where hop-forward beers are concerned. Their West Coast IPA is a great example of the style. Image shows a glass of beer placed on a wooden table with a Chesterfield couch in the background

American IPAs: What you need to know

Origin: The modern IPA has its background in the English IPA and American pale ale styles.

Etymology: Here’s where things get complicated. For further reading, I have provided a link to the origins and myths surrounding the English forerunner of the modern IPA style. For now, IPA in the true modern sense is used to denote a hoppy pale ale. Many IPAs are not exactly pale and they certainly don’t have any connection to India.

Availability: All over. IPA is among the most widely produced craft beer styles. Even your local supermarket or chain bottleshop/ liquor store/ off-licence should have at the very least a couple to choose from.

ABV: 5.5-7.5%.

Approachability: Variable. If you are new to craft beer you might find hop forward beers to be something of a challenge as your palate, not naturally tuned to taste something so bitter, gradually adapts. Otherwise IPAs can range from balanced and approachable through to the more extreme end of the scale.

Glassware: The Spiegelau (in conjunction with Sierra Nevada and Dogfish Head)) IPA glass (pictured) was designed with the IPA in mind. Its tapered-in head concentrates aroma while the ribbed bottom reinvigorates carbonation. Otherwise a stemmed tulip glass with a tapered top will do.

A (not so) brief history of the American IPA

Remember in the last episode we busted open the romantic, even bucolic but ultimately inaccurate history of the saison style? The origin of the IPA tops the lot in terms of historic inaccuracies and myths perceived as facts. But as stated above, you can learn that side of IPA’s history in depth over at Martyn Cornell’s Zythophile blog (link provided below). His excellent piece that puts pay to the belief George Hodgson invented the IPA and that early IPAs were sent to India for slaking the thirsts of soldiers on the Colonial frontline. You might be shocked but not surprised to learn that, as in the homeland, pale beers were the preserve of the elite while the troops preferred porter.

Fast forward to the advent of the American craft beer movement and IPAs henceforth became a very different thing. There are two precursors to the style: Anchor Brewing’s all-Cascade hop Liberty Ale and Ballantyne’s IPA, oak-aged and brewed to a traditional English recipe.

As the American pale ale style emerged brewers and drinkers suddenly yearned for more hops. With pale ale at its base and the notable clean fermentation profile, American IPAs soon became a showcase for the country’s ever-expanding array of citrusy, tropical, piny, bitter and resinous hops. 

An IBUs arms race soon followed as brewers battled it out to see who could brew the most extreme IPA, along with double IPAs, black IPAs, red IPAs and other variations on the theme.

Philter Brewing's IPA is clean, refreshing, punchy with citrus . Unfussy, one can easily enjoy three or four of these in a sitting and not be fatigued or overwhelmed. Image shows a stemmed tulip glass of beer to the left and its matching can on the right.

Why are IPAs so awesome?

That’s like asking why burgers are so awesome? Or why Porsches are so awesome? Or rock concerts? American IPAs are a concentrated explosion of citrus, tropical fruit and resinous flavour while keeping the experience relatively simple.

The good ones, though full in flavour, are also super refreshing.

Hazy IPAs have all the fruit juice you want, but too many and suddenly 6PM feels like 6AM and it’s breakfast all over again. Unless we’re talking unfiltered IPAs which are a totally different animal. Unfiltered IPAs are absolutely chockers with bitterness.

And I’m sure the more seasoned IPA drinkers among you will agree there is nothing more awesome than an IPA with just the right amount of resinousness!

Golden Road's Heal the Bay IPA, brewed in Los Angeles, Calif is a classic example of the style brimming with massive tropical fruit flavours. Image shows a glass of beer to the left and its matching can to the right.

American IPAs are better than wine with…

Spicy food.

Or so the myth goes. The question is, do you want something to quell the heat, or enhance it?

If you are looking to quell the heat, look elsewhere (hummus is great for taming the fire of chilli). Beer’s carbonic bite (the sensation of vigorous carbonation hitting the tongue) and alcohol will elevate the heat derived from chilli’s capsaicin. Moreover, chilli is hydrophobic, which is to say it is repelled by a mass of water, hence beer will make chilli even angrier (beer being ~92% water).

To that end, resist the urge to go balls-out hot with your chosen rub, sauce or marinade if you intend to enjoy a few IPAs with dinner. Go instead for something milder, with lots of bright citrus flavours that’ll play off IPAs’ own citrus, tropical and stone fruit characters. You’ll find the heat of the chilli elevated to a satisfying level.

This match works particularly well when your chosen IPA is at the lower end of the bitterness scale.

Further reading

Four IPA Myths Busted, by Martyn Cornell.

Look out for a post taking a look at beer's kaleidoscopic weird and wonderful side in the coming days. Caramel Creme White Chocolate NEIPA that tastes like the middle of a creme egg, anyone?

#whatbeerwednesdays: Episode 3

American amber ale

Continuing BlindTasteTest’s series on beer styles you may have forgotten, let’s take a look at the humble American amber ale.

Autumn, Fall if you will, is descending upon the Southern hemisphere. There are no complaints about the milder temperatures and the sun rising at a civilised hour at this end, and ultimately this is a beer blog - not a weather channel. Plus I’m aiming for an overseas readership as much as a local one.

Anyway, the transitional seasons are perfect times to explore versatile session beers, those beers perfectly suited to 5°C either side of 19°C (or 41°F either side of 66°F). Not hot enough anymore/ yet for sours? The wind chill factor is a ways off/ a growingly distant memory and stouts, porters and strong ales are out of the question?

It is perhaps now the best time to seek the comfort and refreshment of the middle of the road.

But let’s say the good old fashioned American pale ale or even session IPA isn’t doing it for you anymore. You want malty body, you want soul, a bit of a dance of flavour, but still with a certain pronounced citrus driven American/ New World hop character. It’s worth noting the latter rules out many English bitters).

American amber ales might just be what you’re looking for.

They get even better when burgers are thrust onto the stage.

A great Australian example of the amber ale style, a more hoppy one at that, is Exit's Amber ale. Image shows a glass of amber ale with a branded Exit Amber can to just out in front but off to the side a tad for dramatic effect.

American amber ales: What you need to know

Origin: A modern take on the American pale ale which became popular among many US craft breweries.

Etymology: American ambers were for a time also referred to as simply red ales in the Pacific NorthWest during the ‘80s and ‘90s.

Where to find them: Good mainstream bottleshops/ supermarkets (depending on where you live) and independent retailers. It is a fairly common, even mainstream style.

ABV: 4.5-6.2%

Approachability: Very approachable. Because of their even balance between hops and malt American ambers are often seen as “gateway” beers.

Glassware: “ Nonic”pint glass (the sort with the convex protrusion forming a hoop about one-third down) if it’s not too warm. A dimpled mug is also a great option.

Seasonality: Year round, but amazing in milder weather

Serving temperature: 6-8°C (42-46°F). Serve colder if it is on the warmer side of 19°C / 66°F.

American amber ales: A (not so) brief history

Simply put, American amber ales evolved out of American pale ales, themselves inspired by English bitters. (I am a big fan of Sierra Nevada pale ale as it harks back to English strong bitters but with a decidedly Californian sensibility).

Many American beers during the 1970s and ‘80s were born out of British brewing traditions due to the brewing literature available at the time.

American amber ales, or red ales, morphed out of the pale ale style as brewers amped up the malt base with crystal malts (these impart quite caramelly notes) and Continental specialty grains (hearty Munich or Vienna malt) to add colour and depth of flavour.

During the ‘80s many enterprising American breweries slapped together apathetic examples of the emerging amber ale style and gave them woodland critter names so as to cash in on the trend. As ever the market decided and these critters soon retreated back into the undergrowth from whence they came.

 The amber liquid

Sessionable and approachable they may be, American amber ales can be a confusing bunch. The term is almost a catch-all in that there is plenty of overlap. The darkest of pale ales impinge on amber ale territory equalling the palest ambers, while the palest of amber ales can be equal to the darkest of pale ales.

In terms of appearance, we’re talking about a moderate amber to coppery brown hue with a relatively persistent off-white head. Unless dry-hopped to the wazoo, amber ales should also boast an attractive clarity - the sort I hope to leave you with after navigating the murky waters of this intriguing modern style.

As if the style’s colour wasn’t confusing enough, since the ‘80s and ‘90s amber ales have morphed several times over, the style ever evolving. Some examples are known to be as aggressively hopped as American pale ales.

On the other hand, some examples’ malt character masks the hop character almost entirely.

When choosing an amber ale always have a read of the spiel and from there you can generally tell what the beer has in store. Words like “citrus, New World hop character and even simply “hoppy amber” will of course denote a beer whose balance is slightly to the bitter side. “Caramel, toffee, richness, creamy head” suggest you’ll have an amber ale somewhat on the maltier end.

Either way the malt-hop balance sees the pendulum swing not too far in either direction. Any emphatic hoppy zing will have the measuredly caramelly malt to rein it in, while less hoppy versions will most certainly have a characteristic New World hop aroma about them (think citrus, a touch of pine, stone fruit and maybe even some berries).

What they both have in common is their clean American yeast profile, meaning you won’t detect any red apple, pear or other yeast serived aromas and flavours. It’s malt and hops, straight down the line.

Why are American amber ales so awesome?

Few beers could be quite as sessionable as the humble American amber, which is precisely what they are intended to be.

Pale ales can sometimes err on the lean side. Session IPAs, in most cases, are certainly too lean for certain times of the year. American amber ales promise both flavour and refreshment, deliver both, and add in a touch of proper fulfilment for good measure.

American amber ales are better than wine with...

American ambers make for a fantastic table, picnic or barbecue beer, adept at linking arms with all sorts of foods, but where they shine is when they are enjoyed with a hearty cheeseburger or mushroom burger.

Think a toasted bun, the start and the end of any burger experience really. You want something that has enough of a very slightly toasty, malty-rich character to meet it at the centre of the dancefloor.

Then the tango commences. The meat (or indeed mushroom) needs both enough malt for the lead and follow routine before the beer’s hoppy character cuts through and sweeps the burger off its feet.

Caramelised onions heel-toe with the beer’s own caramelly malt notes. We’re looking at a unanimous 10 out of 10 score from the judges here. If bacon is involved, any impression of sweetness from the beer will contrast the saltiness of the meat while the hearty maltiness plays off the fat.

Got pickles? I should bloody well hope so. Hoppier examples of American ambers will further enhance pickles’ cutting and balancing power. Given the beer’s hoppiness and moderate to high carbonation, there is enough there to cut through the beastly richness and refresh the palate (even when salty chips are involved).

 And with that the dance on your palate is over and everyone is applauding.

Six-Pack o’ Beer Facts: Episode 2

Happy Friday Blind Tasters! Here we are again, let us delve into the world of beer facts, but not so deeply you’re drowning in alpha acids and college degree level history.

These are beer facts compact enough to take home with you right now. And what better way to start this fortnight’s episode with the six-pack itself?

1.The convenient six-pack

Before we look into the origins of the six-pack we must first go back to 1935, when the (now defunct) Kruger Brewing Company of New Jersey released the very first canned beer. The packaging vessel of course has gone in and out of favour in the near century since, but one thing that remains constant is the ubiquity of the six-pack, the beer delivery system those first cans helped create.

The greatest appeal of the six-pack was, and it is said to be quite by design, was among American housewives who found carrying and storing cans by the six easy and convenient. The beer can itself also finding favour among GIs returning from service who consumed beer from the can while on the frontlines during the Second World War.

2.Russian Court order

Think Trump’s current trade war is baffling? Me too, I don’t understand the first thing about it. But historically trade tariffs and embargoes have gone back centuries. On March 31 1822 Russia wholesale banned the importation of almost every British article, from cheese to cutlery, and from ale to cotton, with one notable exemption: Porter.

That’s right, the Russians made the strange distinction between ale and porter (porters right down to their core are of course ales!) meaning the peoples could enjoy porter but not their also much beloved Burton strong ale. All this was of course at the behest of the Russian Empress Catherine the Great who was said to be highly partial of the beer that came to be known as Russian Imperial Stout in the early 20th century.

You can learn more about this storied beer style from a fascinating article for which I have provided a link below.

3.Belgian beer glasses

Most of Australia’s major cities have a Belgian Beer Café. Each has an admirably strong selection of Belgian beers. Admirably these are dependable sources for the likes of Westmalle, St. Bernardus, Liefmans and Petrus, among others. What is a very neat touch is most of these beers come with matching glassware for that perfect Instagram shot.

But what might be a feast for the eyes is more often than not seriously compromising the beer’s complex aromatic presentation, the very thing for which Belgian beer is known (Liefmans’ glassware being a notable exception - see images below). Most branded Belgian beer glasses, even Orval’s!, are shaped like a chalice, with an enormously exposed surface area that does nothing in giving your nose that concentrated dose of concentrated aromatics. They are purely for marketing purposes. 

Liefmans' branded glassware is among the better examples doing the rounds. Image shows a glass of Liefmans' Goudenband oud bruin-style ale poured into its matching glass with the original bottle to its left

4.Millboro Lite?

Marketing and beer go hand in hand, from the sales reps on the road to asinine Super Bowl advertisements. The story of Miller Lite is particularly fascinating. The “Lite” brand was originally owned by Gabblingers, and the name harks back to Marlboro Lite cigarettes. Both were marketed heavily towards women, however Miller, whose parent company was then Phillip-Morris (!), purchased the “Lite” brand in 1975.

Then, marketing swayed heavily back towards the male populace (particularly sports fans) with the tagline:”More flavour, less filling.” Miller Lite, an adjunct lager (which is to say brewed with maize), was indeed made less filling by being filtered to an inch of its life, with every last skerrick of fermentable sugar accounted for by a fungal agent.

5.Umami’s first cousin: Kokumi

The five taste sensations of salty, sour, bitter, sweet and umami (savoury) should be familiar to everyone who appreciates food and beer, and almost certainly familiar to everyone else. But did you know there are several more as yet less understood detectable flavours science is still working to understand? One particularly mysterious flavour element is known as Kokumi, and it is thought to be a hidden flavour element within beer that is absent from wine and even sake.

Kokumi is noted to be indicative of protein-rich material, and yes, beer is relatively rich in protein. But rather than being its own flavour element, kokumi is also said to enhance salty, sweet, sour, bitter and umami flavours, while also enriching mouthfeel. It’s for this reason it is being widely studied as a food additive. Moreover, its flavour enhancing properties are why beer should be considered more as a partner for your next meal.

6.Beer as an antibiotic?

Beer’s nutritional value goes far beyond kokumi-giving protein. After all, much like bread it has kept millions of people nourished for centuries. It was once upon a time, Ancient Egyptian times to be exact, even a source of antibiotics.

To be exact, it was the peoples of ancient Nubia whose bones were found to have traces of tetracycline, which most likely came from beer (then a valuable dietary staple). It is also worth noting that studies undertaken by bioarchaelogists and medicinal chemists from Paratek Pharmaceuticals found that the ancient Nubians were then producing antibiotics, over 2,000 years prior to the advent of penicillin in 1928.

More on the history of Russian imperial stouts can be found here

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