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| Epic Loral, a "New World" NZ lager using a single experimental ho | p variety |
This fortnightly series endeavours to explore all things beer, with 10 short sharp facts you mightn’t already know. I figured it might be ideal to start off with the deceptively simple world of lagers and Pilsners.
Lager is as ubiquitous as brand-name soft drinks, motor vehicles and smartphones. Nine in every 10 beers consumed worldwide are lagers. The style - even once well regarded German examples thereof - has since found itself relegated to the realm of those aforementioned modern conveniences thanks to sleek marketing and industrial-scale production.
Over the past few years, smaller scale craft breweries have embraced the challenge of making lager something worth celebrating again. Indeed lagers are a challenging style to brew. Not only do smaller breweries not have the luxury of age-old hand-me-down experience, hyper-modern laboratories needed to maintain consistency, nor the storage space for “lagering,” the style is highly unforgiving in that any fault has little to hide behind.
Craft brewed lagers and “New World” Pilsners (those utilising hops originating outside of Central Europe) are often hop-forward to the point of being criminally unbalanced. There are, however, plenty of lagers that hit the mark. A handful of brewers, such as Dainton Beer, have gone beyond the pale (helles) lager style by exploring dark malts and global hop varieties. In so doing they have reinvigorated the Schwarzbier lager style. Meanwhile New Zealand’s Garage Project has gone even further by experimenting with adjuncts and even Champagne yeast to full effect.
With summer on the way, why not set aside some shelf space for a handful of lagers of Pilsners? As well as the 10 facts below, Blind Taste Test has also dutifully suggested the “Ultimate Lager & Pilsner Sixer” to get you started.
Without any further ado, here’s the need to know stuff on all things lager and Pilsner.
1. Not all lagers are Pilsners, but all Pilsners are lagers. This is to say Pilsner is a regional variety of lager (in the traditional Old World sense at least).
2. A key difference between German and Czech Pilsners is the acceptability of diacetyl. Though not essential in Czech Pilsners, this perceived fault is acceptable when restrained. Otherwise the German Pilsner is, according to BJCP guidelines, a carbon-copy of the Bohemian Pilsner style adapted for German brewing conditions.
3. Water minerality means everything to lagers. The water used to brew German Pils is higher in sulfate which lends itself to a slightly more aggressive fermentation, while the water found in Czech Pilsners is softer. Water higher in sulfate lends itself to a crisper, drier lager beer.
4. German Pils are not to be confused with Helles lagers. Helles, meaning “pale,” lagers are more subtle in the hop character department. They are by nature malt driven.
5. Old World lagers feature Noble hop varieties such as Saaz, Hellertauer, Spalt and Tettnang. These hops are known for imparting floral, grassy and slightly spicy characters. Commercially brewed Australian lagers tend to use Pride of Ringwood, American Pilsners favour cluster and/or modern Noble crosses, while New World examples may feature a combination of Noble hops and almost anything from across the spectrum.
6. Germany is arguably the only country where spring seasonal beers are common. Sure, “Best beers for spring” lists are a dime a dozen - heck they might even include a German Schwarzbier (black lager). However, when talking seasonal beer it’s important to note the matching of beer to seasonal festivals, gatherings and centuries-old traditional customs (Lent, Oktoberfest, Maifest, etc.) As such, Maibocks are common during May in German (hence “Mai” bock, Maifest).
7. Bock beers are a stronger version of lager. Malt driven, varying in colour from golden through to darker amber hues. Maibocks are at the lighter end of the spectrum; bocks hold things up in the middle; and doppelbocks and eisbocks head up the pointy end. Doppelbocks are incredibly malty with caramelised sugar notes dominating while Eisbocks (“ice” bocks) are even stronger still due to a portion of water being frozen during the brewing process.
8. The word “lager” came from the German word “lagern” (which means “to store”).Whether or not lager beers are an overarching categorical style or different to ales once the yeast has fermented the otherwise agnostic wort is up for debate. However, the defining feature of lager beers is “bottom fermentation.” Moreover, maturation occurs at colder temperatures following fermentation with the yeast resorbing unwanted characters. Once filtered the result is a clean crisp appearance and complexion.
9. Budweiser is as much a hotly contested trademark (fought by AB InBev and the brewers of Budvar) as it is a generic name for a regional beer style. Just as Pilsners originated in Plzen, beers originating from Budweis are known as Budweisers.
10. Forget the shame of the football hooligan stereotype and the incessant and unfounded rhetoric that IPAs go great with spicy food. Modern curries, particularly spicy ones such as Rogan Josh, beef vindaloo and (albeit inauthentic) spicy rendang lend themselves well to enjoying with a lager because of cleansing and complimentary elements. A pale lager’s carbonation strips the tongue of the fat and spicy heat, while the floral spicy notes compliment those of the curry. Go for a Czech Pilsner if your curry is a creamy though no less spicy number as the slight sweetness will play off both elements nicely.
Just remember that beer does not temper spicy food. Both alcohol and capsaicin are irritants and will conspire together on your tongue. Not even a 5 per cent lager will save you!
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| Combination Singapore/Malay curry; replete with spicy lamb, hot rendang, pumpkin and more; appropriately paired with a draught-poured pint of Tiger Beer. Perfection! |
The Ultimate Lager & Pilsner Sixer
It is worth noting the following six beers are generally available at most independent retailers and Dan Murphy’s stores, with an emphasis on Australian and new Zealand offerings where freshness is a factor. A last confirmed sighting is also included in the description.
Budvar: Czech Lager
Last confirmed sighting: Readily available almost anywhere
While this blog endeavours to showcase as many fresh Australian beers as possible, it’s worth going back to school with a few Old World examples of any given style. Just be sure to investigate best after / bottling dates when looking at imported beers lest you end up buying a beer with all the hop character of Skippy the Kangaroo following a three-day bender. Budvar, when fresh, is the quintessential Czech Pilsner. Its distinct slightly sweet backbone is offset by fresh cut grass, floral and restrained bitter Saaz hop characters.
Weihenstephaner: Pils
Last confirmed sighting: Dan Murphy’s, Canning Vale
The oldest still-operating brewery in the world is for many a gateway into craft - or well crafted - beers, although most drinkers go down the Hefe-weissbier route. Ignore the Pils at your peril, however, for it is among the world’s most essential beers. With the higher water sulfate level as is common in Germany, the finish on Weihenstephaner’s Pils is drier, hoppier and more refreshing than that of Budvar.
Balter Brewing: Pilsner
Last confirmed sighting: Mane Liquor, Perth
Lovers of Old World lagers and Pilsners will find a lot to celebrate here. Queensland’s overnight success story Balter has created an Australian (in location only( take on a traditional Pilsner. Using all Noble hops and no fancy gimmickery, you won’t be able to stop at just one. Given its freshness and much shorter time spent travelling than any given imported lager, it’s easy to see it stocking fridges from Mandurah to Minnamurra and from Gympie to Glenorchy.
Garage Project: Hops en Pointe
Last confirmed sighting: Mane Liquor, Perth
Garage Project is back on Australian shelves following a short hiatus. Among the newly arrived offerings is the esoteric, boundary pushing Hops en Pointe, a Pilsner utilising Champagne yeast during fermentation. As fresh as the first sunny day after a week of rain in Champagne, Hops en Pointe is guaranteed to have you sliding over towards the 5 when checking it in on Untappd.
Garage Project: Day of the Dead
Last confirmed sighting: Mane Liquor, Perth
With every Ultimate Sixer the objective is to share the love among the brewers, but with Garage Project’s 2017 release of Day of the Dead and its hotter, spicier sister (pun very much not intended!) La Calavera Catrina incoming, resistance proved futile. Day of the Dead is a dark lager infused with blue agave, cocoa and a hint of chilli, inspired by the Aztec xocolati drink. The resulting beer is well rounded, nuanced and delicate with notes of sweet cocoa, smoke and vanilla. What’s not to love?
Dainton Beer: New World Dark Lager
Last confirmed sighting: Mane Liquor, Perth
Carrum Downs’ Dainton Beer (formerly Dainton Family Brewery) took inspiration from Franconian Schwarzbiers but went full throttle with its hop profile to create something refreshingly new. Hellertau Blanc hops form the base before the beer is vigorously dry-hopped with Ella, Motueka (formerly Brooklyn) and Mandarina Bavaria varietals. The resulting beer is a slightly smoky, chocolatey and bitter affair though balance is maintained throughout.
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