Words by Graham Frizzell
When Carywn Cellars
announced its Into the Barrels Festival, excitement among beer fans went beyond
the capacity for rational thought.
Loose Ghostbusters references aside, beer lovers collectively melted over
the announcement of an intimate Brooklyn Brewery tasting, co-hosted by Miro
Bellini and Ben Duval, featuring samples of the brewery’s fabled “Ghost
Bottles” collection.
The stage was set for
an afternoon of drinking deeply of the barrel.
The stage is set |
The premise
New York, New York’s
Brooklyn Brewery is among the most recognisable brands in craft beer. Founded by Tom Potter and former
Associated Press Middle East Correspondent Steve Hindy in 1984, Brooklyn garnered
a firm reputation for its lager, brown ale, double chocolate stout and its
collection of eccentric one-offs, known as “Ghost Bottles.”
Brooklyn Brewery’s current
head brewer Garrett Oliver started the “Ghost Bottles” program as a fun
experiment. 30-50 bottles are
brewed a year and only a brewer or a brewery ambassador may open them. They’re built for special occasions
rather than typical supply chains.
Surely intimate tastings don’t come more special than this.
Miro Bellini is among
one of the most recognisable faces among Melbourne’s craft beer circuit. He’s certainly also among the hardest
working. Co-founder of the
internationally recognised Good Beer Week, former brewery tour host at Mountain
Goat, Palais Imports stalwart, beer menu consultant and Brooklyn Brewery
Ambassador - there is little he hasn’t seen or done.
As the host for the
occasion, Miro stated words to the effect: “It’s not just about rare and
special beers. If the term ‘Masterclass’
is to be used, there really ought to be something to learn.” To that end, the session was as much about
exploring the palate itself as it was enjoying the most rare and experimental Brooklyn
concoctions.
It’s not often you’ll
find soda water going head to head with tonic water at a Masterclass, however
perhaps it should be a standard fixture at all intimate tastings. Miro Bellini had the 20-strong
attendance compare the two – not only to decipher the nuances of each, but also
to calibrate the palate. As it
turns out, the soda water came in handy for cleansing the palate following the
enjoyment of a particularly rich and bitey cheese.
Miro went on to say
beauty lies in delicate, softer flavours as much as it does in bigger and
bolder beverages: “Saying ‘I only like big [red wines] is a lot like saying I
need 10 ghost chillies for an ænema,” he quipped.
As the Masterclass
would go on to prove, a saison can be – and often is – equal to (or greater
than) any barleywine, quad or imperial stout. Certainly barrel-ageing imparts an even greater degree of
complexity on whatever might happen to be taking its beauty rest within,
however the same could be said of naked “lighter beers” when pitted against
richer, darker counterparts.
Sorachi Ace (2 year-old,) Orchard Pick and Smokin’
Ace
First beer off the
ranks was a well-aged (two years – at a constant temperature of 4ºC) bottle of Sorachi
Ace. The idea in presenting an
aged beer was so the base could be tasted “naked,” without the impact of
Sorachi hop character – perfect for identifying the nuances of the Ghost Bottle
versions to follow.
Indeed, the lengthy
ageing process had taken its toll on the hop character of the beer, however its
baseline flavours remained. Dry
and characterful, Sorachi Ace is among one of the best modern saisons going –
aged or otherwise.
Left: 2-yo Sorachi Ace and Right: Sorachi Ace: Orchard Pick |
Then, Miro and Carywn
Cellars’ resident co-host Ben Duval distributed the first of two beers to be
compared with the original Sorachi Ace: Orchard Pick, aged over peaches,
nectarines and in red wine barrels.
Attendees were encouraged to discuss what they tasted with one another,
what nuances could be found and how the palate was excited. It was also pointed out many beer
judges use their forearm to reset their olfactories. After all, the scent most common to a person is one’s own.
On the nose Orchard
Pick presented a beautifully delicate and floral bouquet – characters that
segued beautifully to the palate. Saisons
are of course wonderful for enjoying alongside food, with Orchard Pick’s
intricate flavours playing magnificently well off the Capocollo.
Smokin'! |
Smoky meats go
especially well with smoky beers, hence the next beer to be poured was a real treat:
Smokin’ Ace. As the name suggests,
this fantastic beer spent 40 winks inside mescal barrels. Intense but delicate throughout, the
nose is treated to a huge hit of smoke before more than a hint of warming
mescal rounds out the palate. The
experience was taken to a new flavour zone with the last of the sediment poured
into the glass. Prosciutto and
Capocollo both played exceedingly well off Smoking Ace’s gloriously smoky
character.
K is for Kriek
Kriek is far and away
one of the most beautiful beer styles, be it a classic Lambic version or a
well-executed New World interpretation.
Miro and Ben set about pouring arguably the highlight Ghost Bottle of
the day. Brewed with orange peel,
honey, candi syrup; aged in Bourbon barrels on cherries; complex to the point
of being damn-near dense; K is for Kriek could be likened to eating gourmet
chocolate cherry alongside a dram of Bourbon. It could even liken a particularly boozy Christmas cake. Again it must be stressed this is a New
World interpretation, one that eschews the traditional Lambic funk for other
qualities, however this was nothing short of a rare treat.
During the K is for Kriek
tasting, Miro raised an interesting point about styles and the origin of terms
like “quadrupel.” Indeed, the term
“quadrupel” (or “quad” for short) was coined by American brewers, rather than
the Belgians.
Ben Duval pouring the exceptionally good K is for Kriek |
Bel Air (aged on mango, in cognac barrels)
So as not to overwhelm
the class’s collective palate (a whopping great “dessert” was to follow), Miro
and Ben poured something a little more restrained: a mango, cognac barrel-aged
version of Brooklyn’s Bel Air wild ale.
This experimental,
kettle soured ale seemed to stump a large contingent of the attendees, for few
could detect its cognac notes.
Others disagreed, saying that it made a subtle presence. Either way, this delicate, beautifully
poised and richly aromatic beer reached flavour symphony-like heights when
paired with a generous serving of d’Affinois cream cheese. Utter perfection!
Black Ops
Dessert was duly
served following what had been 20 minutes of lively (albeit hazily remembered)
conversation. Those treated to
“the beer that doesn’t exist” ought to count themselves lucky for being given
the opportunity to experience something as rare as a rainy day in Arizona.
Aged in Bourbon
barrels for four months, bottled without carbonation and then re-fermented with
Champagne yeast – it’s as magical and mystical as it sounds. Surprisingly, though, it wasn’t nearly
as heavy and dense as one might expect.
In fact, Black Ops had a delicacy all its own.
With that, one of the
most fulfilling intimate Masterclasses to have been hosted at Carwyn Cellars
concluded. A massive thanks must
go to Miro Bellini, Ben Duval, Brooklyn Brewery and everyone at Carwyn Cellars
for making this wonderful event possible.
This ain't no game, this is Brooklyn's Black Ops |
* The effect of storing beer in a room
as warm heated to a constant 30ºC for a period of one week becomes as aged as
beer that has spent three months in a room chilled to a constant 4ºC.
* Sorachi Ace hops were initially
developed by Sapporo, but were ultimately considered unfavourable for the
Japanese palate, due to the hop’s dill and lemongrass-like flavours.
* Brettanomyces goes to work a great
deal slower than most conventional strains of brewers yeast.
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