Tuesday, 6 January 2015

Feral Brewing: Kelis (Saison ale)

Draught only release, The Belgian Beer Cafe (Perth)

Bringing boys to the (farm)yard.

The premise and artwork behind Feral Brewing's Kelis saison says more of a history lesson in the style than it does of brainwashing, over formulated and all round terrible pop music. As it happened, the better a farmhouse's saison, the greater its chances of luring cheap labour. As one of the unemployed ~75% of legally blind folk out there, I for one would probably come running. Loose girls singing about milkshakes are indeed surplus to requirement.

First off, I am only now becoming accustomed to old and new world saisons, hence my appreciation (and understanding) thereof is in its infancy. To my knowledge the appearance of Kelis does not look like a typical modern saison; its carbonation does not erupt in leaps and bounds like so many others do, however it bears all the other hallmarks of the style. The mouthfeel also tells of something that is fuller bodied than is typical while Kelis' colour is of a lovely straw, golden hue.

Unlike its namesake, Kelis' aromatics sing in perfect harmony with ginger, coriander, subtle spice and a suggestion of oceanic brininess. In no way do these notes belie what follows, for this solid Feral brew bounds forth with plenty of ginger, coriander, za'atar (suggestive), lemon peel and brine. All of this rides a tropically warm malt wave. The aftertaste is big on lemon zest and peel while remaining somehow dry. Believe me when I say that this is a rather difficult beer to pin down.

On the whole Kelis is a delightfully refreshing beer; perfect for summer imbibing. Moreover, I could imagine fewer better beers to accompany fried; salty, battered and vinegary goodies (best enjoyed by the seaside).

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